West Coast

We didn't get to see near enough of the West Coast country.  It rained and was misty the first day we drove into Westport and did our walk around Cape Foul Wind (don't you love the name?).  The next morning was still overcast, but we drove down, about thirty miles (which takes about 45 minutes, like driving in our mountains) to Pancake Rocks on the coast.  It's a magnificent coastline with lots of cliffs, forests, and beautiful beaches.  Next trip, it's Nelson down to Haast and across the pass to Lake Wanaka  and Queenstown.  That route takes you through the glacier region where Lord of the Rings was filmed.  The West Coast is wild and isolated - not many tourists, or residents either. 

On the left is Lake Rotoiti on the way over to Murchison.  It is about half-way across the south island to the west coast.  We walked about a mile and back around the lake on an excellent track with native beech trees and lots of bell birds singing.  It was a beautiful day and a beautiful walk.  I think the lake is about the size of Lake Glenville. 

"Japanese" room at Maruia Springs Thermal "Resort"     Cape Foul Wind on the coast south of Westport

Here is he seal colony on the walk at the Cape.  If you zoom in you may be able to see the baby seals.  There is one draped over a rock.  There were a dozen or so little ones playing and tumblng off the rocks and swimming in the water. 

This is the longest swing bridge in New Zealand.  It crosses the Buller River, which the road follows half-way across the south island.  This gorge was the site of a 7.8 earthquake in 1929 which created the cliffs along the river.  The river is deep here, and one can take jet boat rides or ride a zip line across the gorge.  We thought the swing bridge was scary enough.  The drive across the south island takes about 4 1/2 hours from coast to coast - Westport to Blenheim.

Happy St. Patricks Day everyone.  Tomorrow is the Graperide, a bicycle race with 2500 riders entereed.  The route starts in Blenheim, then up to Picton, along the Queen Charlotte Drive (challenging in a car) to Havelock, and back to Blenheim.  I think that's about 100 k.  There are bicyclists arriving on the ferry this afternoon.  Put it on your list, Neil. 



The Spectacular West Coast

I give up on natural thermal spas!  We've looked at some in several countries in Europe (full of old naked hippies) and one in Chile (full of algae and old Germans), and the one in Maruia Springs was nice enough, empty, sulphorous (not surprising) but the hotel was built in the seventies and never updated.  So much for that romantic notion.  Our "Japanese" dinner was less than authentic and just so-so, a downer for a country with so much good food and wonderful cooking.

Yesterday afternoon, we drove over the mountains to the town of Westport the gateway to the West Country of NZ.  It rained all the way and turned cold in the mountains.  After a good lunch and in the afternoon drizzle, we drove down about 10 k to  Foulwind Cape and adjacent Tauranga Bay.  The clouds began to thin, and we walked all the way around to the light house along the cliff top track,  passing spectacular scenery, friendly horses, and munching sheep.  Actually, we even had patches of sun shine most of the time.  The baby seals rolling around and playing on the rocks were an extra treat.  We took lots of pictures, and I'll post them tomorrow when we get home. 

The Bay House is a new restaurant at the end of the bay with a new chef and owners.  We sat on the patio and watched the surfers in the bay, then ate fresh lemon fish in brown butter sauce over bok choy. Bill keeps saying, "this is the way to live."  Afterall, there was a glorious sunset for which this part of NZ is known.  More coast today, and then we turn back toward Picton.  The sun is predicted to shine all day.  WISH YOU WERE HERE.  NEXT TIME.

Top of the Southern Alps Tomorrow

Clearing this afternoon and hopefully sunny for the next couple of days.  We are driving down through Blenheim to St. Arnaud, a mountain village at the end of an alpine lake in the southern alps.  There should be some gorgeous scenery for pictures if we are lucky and have a bright day or two.  From St. Arnaud, we drive further south and higher into the mountains to Manuia Springs Thermal Resort.  It's a Japanese influenced hotel with lovely thermal pools for soaking, a spa, and restaurant.  (http://www.manuiasprings.co.nz/) 

We hope to do a little hiking in both locations. 

Last week we did a nice hike through the Wither Hills which is above the Marlborough wine valley.  The views of the huge golden grass covered hills contrast with the green acres of vines bellow.

The Classic Car Museum is in Blenheim as well as Peter Jackson's vintage aircraft museum.  All the cars are owned by Ron Stuart who is also the owner of Mud House Wines.  There are hundreds of cars in his collection, but the ones on display were all mint condition and usually brand new 50's through 70's cars.  It's amazing - American, English, Japanese cars all brand new.  Bill said he didn't think cars from these decades qualify as antiques! 

The next morning, this little car was parked in front and across the street from our apartment.  It's advertising Easy Grass, an artificial turf.  Which one of all these would you like to drive around.  The grassy car or the classy car? 

Pictures from the Last Two Days

These are a good representation of the past 24 hours here. Yesterday was one of those sunny days we remember as typical NZ summer.  We ran outside and enjoyed it before the rain began again last night.  When the sun shines, the light and colors are so beautiful, it's hard to remember the rain.

Here's our fillet of fresh butterfish I baked on Friday night for dinner, and the fresh spinach.  I copied a dish we had at Rock Ferry Winery and put pesto and pine nuts on top the fish.  Placed a layer of hollandaised (is that a verb?) warm potaotes on top the fresh spinach, and then the fish on top.  It turned out pretty well and very tasty.  It would have looked better with some sort of red garnish, right Matt?  But, we gobbled it up so fast we didn't notice until I saw the picture. 

Saturday morning we walked up the bush walk to Queen Charlotte College (the local high school) and watched the "seniors" cricket match.  There was a nice cool breeze, so inspite of sitting in the direct sun, we were comfortable.  Thank goodness for sun screen. 

Lunch was home-cooked fresh bluff oysters which have just come in season from the south of the South Island.  We didn't know anything about them until I saw the signs in local restaurants and grocers advertising their availability.  They are worth the price, about $1.75 each.  (Hamburgers on the grill for supper - a pretty simple supper to make up for the "gourmet" selections the night before.)

A strolll around the ferry port in the afternoon rewarded us with three antique cars.  It never fails.  I finally discovered from the host at the car museum in Blenhiem that NZ-ders love cars because no one could buy them in the sixties and seventies because they were imported only for those who had international bank accounts and were able to place special orders.  Also, the South Island  is popular for antique car lovers because there is so little traffic here and so many scenic drives  This is a Morris Cowley.  I never heard of them, and don't know the year, but is is beautifully restored and the key was in the ignition!

Here's its partner, also a Morris Cowley.  I think you might call it a touring car.  Aren't they beautiful?  Does anyone know more about these vehicles?  I'm sure you  can Google them; I don't have enough time on the cafe internet I am using.  I suppose by the name they are English.            

 This is the float plane that takes off and lands (waters?) in our harbor several times on a sunny day, and quite often on a rainy one.  It was pretty active yesterday.  At $94.00 NZ each person for a ten minute ride, I think the owner/pilot is doing pretty well.  It circles right over our balcony before putting down. 



You can see how gorgeous the colors are in the sun.  Hope you are having lots of the same. We will miss the great fresh food here as much as the wine.  Now, that's saying something. 

Cyclone, Fire Alarm, and Things that go Bump in the Night

Storm Clouds Over the Cliffs of Kaikoura

We survived the cyclone that blew through the night we came back from Wellington.  That wasn't bad here at all and didn't interfere with Eilene's and Kelli's fights home.  They arrived safely on Sunday, our Monday. 

The next night, I was brushing my teeth and a loud siren sounded through the apartment and a woman's voice said, "Evacuate immediately."  It certainly got our attention.  We went down into the street and met our neighbors from next door who said it was probably just a drill since the fire warden was in town from Auckland.  Well, 5 minutes later two big fire trucks pulled up with about 15 guys who were taking it very seriously.  Even the customers in the downstairs restaurant were outside.  Impressive volunteer firemen, and I guess it was nothing serious because we were soon allowed back in.  In our conversation with our neighbor, he asked if we'd felt the earthquake a couple of nights before.  Well, no........

Last night we were watching TV after dinner, and there was a good bump, like hitting a pot hole with no shock absorbers in your car (like our rental).  Bill and I looked at each other and realized we'd felt this one.  Holy Crabapples!  It was a little scary.  Just what everyone needs, a little excitement in life. 

It's pretty cold here today and still windy.  Temperatures are in the upper 50's. I'm sure you are all warm at home and not bumping around either. 

Charming Motor Launches and a Yacht I'd Like to Know

In the Picton Harbor there are a number of unusual and antique boats that have been lovingly restored.  Being the daughter of a ship's captain makes me especially attracted to these beautiful old boats.  Someone else loves them more than I do, obviously, but it would be fun to take a little spin around the sounds with their owners.  Most motor or sail in and out a couple of times each week, and some are for sale.  Which are your favorites?

This is Faith (left), and we've seen her steaming out to Queen Charlotte Sound almost every weekend. 













And, this is the Pacific Eagle, a lovely 102 foot sailing yacht that may be chartered for your sailing pleasure.  I'm told the owner is Peter Stewart, a New Zealander who lives nearby.  She's absolutely gorgeous.  Does anyone know Petey?  I'd like to be his friend! 

Our Visitors and the Prime MInister

The week before Eilene and Kelli arrived we had a bad Southerly blow in with lots of rain and wind.  The next day was still rainy and stormy, but by evening the sky had cleared and we had this amazing sunset sky.  The bay even turned pink.

The ladies arrived right on time last Sunday at the Blenheim airport.  What fun to see their familiar faces and to load them up in our little creaky Nissan and drive back to Picton.  It is a treat to see NZ through someone else's eyes and to share all the wonderful food, wine, and scenery with such an appreciative audience. 

Today, we are by ourselves again and there are two empty bedrooms, so if any of you decide at the spur of the moment to jump on a plane and come in this direction, we'll be here until March 31. 

We went to Wellington by ferry on Friday, leaving at 6:25 a.m. on the Interislander.  Since the port is only 5 minutes from our apartment, we ONLY had to get up at 5:00 a.m.  However, we were rewarded with an elegant sunrise going out through the Tory Channel to cross the Cook Straits to Welly.  We had previously scheduled the trip for Saturday, but saw a cyclone was headed in our direction, so sailed a day early.  It was a good choice because we were on the last ferry coming back from the north island on Friday evening.  All the later ones were cancelled due to the storm which caused a great deal of damage on the north island on Saturday.  We had heavy winds and rain, but were snug in bed by the time it hit. 

We also went on a wine tour of Marlborough wineries, lots of hikes and drove to Kaikoura to see the seals.  Havelock and green lipped mussels was a hit with Kelli, and both enjoyed the shops in Picton, Wellington, and Blemheim.  We found Jake's birthday All Blacks tee-shirt in Welly and spent most of the morning in Te Papa Museum.  Great day. 

Here's Spy Valley winery sculpture and garden.  I think we hit four wineries and had lunch in a fifth.  We were delayed because John Key, the Prime Minister of NZ was having lunch in Drylands Winery and we hung around to meet him, which we did!  What a lucky break.  He came right over and shook our hands and said how happy he was that we were in NZ.  Now, where else are you allowed to walk right up and speak to the leader of a country?  Of course, we assured Eilene and Kelli that we had set it all up just for them. 

Here's one of the maganificent seals at Kaikoura.  They were all over the rocks and beach.  He postured more than the prime minister and was much less friendly.   

More tomorrow.  The sun is still shining, so it's walking time in Picton.  We need more sun and warm weather.  Maybe there is still time for a late summer.